Published 2 years ago on Oct 22, 2022
by Sanjay LalView: 4753
Day 16 – 9th July 2018 ----Qugu to Taklakot ---
Having spent two days at the site, as per the itinerary, we wrapped up our Manasarovar yatra by completing a parikrama of the lake in a clockwise direction. In the morning we ate our last self-made breakfast and left for Taklakot in buses.
As we continue circling the lake passing a few deserted monasteries or shelters, we climb a ridge and reassemble by a cairn of rocks from where a near dramatic view of the Manasarovar on the East, the Rakshastal on the West, Mandata peak in the South and Mount Kailash in the north could be seen. A remarkable feast to the eyes.
On the way our guide showed us the smadhi of Shaheed Jorawar Singh, who conquered up to here but died here due to high altitude and changed weather conditions. Local people have a great respect for the departed soul of the Indian solider but the samadhi was in a very bad shape.
After then we went to visit Khorchang Temple where Ram-Sita- Lakshman idols are present. They call this Temple as gompha - It was a beautiful temple/gompha based on Buddhist culture.
From there we returned to our hotel at Taklakot. Here we met the yatris of batch 5. This batch was running late as per their itinerary. We gave them our extra rations, in fact our food committee was so generous that they gave away everything and we had nothing left for next day’s breakfast. Food committee of fifth batch exchanged currencies with us.
It was our last day there at Taklakot - there again we talked a lot discussed a lot - some were busy in last minute shopping.
Day 17 – 10th July 2018 ----Taklakot to Gunji -
We were supposed to leave next day morning to be taken back to cross the Lipu Lekh pass - it was the return journey. Our bags were already custom cleared. We all got up at 4 am. Since there was nothing to eat we only had tea. Our Liaison Officers were very particular. They did not want the next batch 6 to wait for even one extra minute on Lipulekh Pass. After getting our back packs inspected by Chinese custom officers we went to stand for immigration. The buses dropped us about a kilometer from the Lipulekh pass. By now it was raining, and the climb became very difficult. Meanwhile our Liaison Officers had requested the Chinese officers to let the three ponies come down from India side to fetch our three ill yatris. I must say the Chinese officers were very co-operative and allowed the porters and ponies of three ill yatris to come down till the bus. It was raining and slippery and foggy.
When finally, we reached at the top of the mountain on the border – the ITBP personnel were there with umbrellas in their hands and wide smiles on their faces to welcome us back to home – our own country, we all felt the joy of coming back and touching our own land.
It was raining - chilly winds-and my porter Tej Singh emerged from somewhere like an angel. He caught hold of my hand carefully, immediately took my bag from my back, put an umbrella on me. I was very happy and grateful to see him again. Bhupendra Singh (the pony wala boy) with horse was also waiting for me.
It was cold, and strong chilly winds were blowing around, my hands started to freeze and become numb ( I did not have the gloves ). With one hand in my jacket pocket, the other holding the stick and with water constantly on the lenses of my spectacles, I decided to walk down as it was down ward and slippery too. I preferred to walk with the help of my porter. It was a long route indeed.
Finally, we reached Nabidhang - we were served hot tea by our own Indian KMVN staff with so much love and warmth - it was as if we had reached our home - everyone was happy to be back again in our own land. After a long time, we cherished our Indian breakfast. It was raining. Due to thick cover of clouds the whole Om Parvat and other adjoining mountain ranges were invisible this time. We could not have the magnificent view of Om Parvat this time. Our liaison officers decided to felicitate the KMVN staff for their hospitality.
Soon after breakfast after giving attendance to ITBP we continued our trek to reach Kalapani. Here we were served delicious lunch, visited Kali temple to thank Mata Kali for her blessings on each one of us and for successful competition of our Holy parikrama.
Once again, our liaison officers thanked the KMVN staff at Kalapani.
After lunch and felicitation ceremony we continued for Gunji. The trek was totally very exhausting. There was no way out except to continue - the route itself was very sticky and clumsy in some parts.
Finally, when we reached Gunji. ITBP was here to receive us. They offered us water, tea and Halwa. We reached our camp at about 4.15 pm. I realized that my clothes were drenched by sweat under the rain coat. Since we had no change of clothes, I could do not much but leave the air to dry the clothes. Our feet were hurting, we were up on our feet since 4 am in Taklakot, walked in fog, rain, slush for 30 kms to reach Gunji.
Since the third batch was stuck in Gunji for last 4 days, we were offered tin sheds. Our igloos were occupied by the yatris of third batch.
ITBP had invited us for a “bara khana”. We all were very tired but gathered some strength and walked to ITBP camp for dinner. The Commanding officer welcomed us and asked us to tell him about our experience of yatra.
We hit the sack tired and exhausted Tomorrow will be another day.
Day 18 – 11th July 2018 ----Gunji ---
The Sky is overcast. It is raining, and everyone is hoping that the sky may clear and helis will be able to take off from Pithoragarh next day.
Day 19 - 12th July 2018 ----Gunji ---
Day spent in waiting for the Airforce to send helicopters to fly us out of Gunji. Though the sky was clear in Gunji, it was raining in Pithoragarh and Chialekh area was foggy. Could not have bath as all our clothes were in the main bag. The main bag was already weighed and kept ready to be taken to the landing pad hence was not handed over to anyone. Few yatris spent their day playing cards, while others went for a walk and some just sat gossiping.
But the helicopters did not come. Wait continues for 3rd and 4th batch. Day spent playing volleyball, cards, walking and gossiping.
Day 19 – 12th July 2018 ----Gunji ----
Another morning. Sky clear at Gunji but raining in Pithoragarh. News is that Airforce can send helicopters till 12 noon, but our hopes start to die as every minute passes.
Moral of the third batch is very low. We got a news that one of their yatri, after giving an undertaking left the batch and moved to Budhi with a porter. This was a big blow to batch 3.
Day 20 – 13th July 2018 ----Gunji---
I was asked by my Liaison officers to divide the full batch into 4 groups in a logical manner to give to Airforce for each sortie. We are a group of 56 yatris including two liaison officers. Group included sick people, couples, old people and women. The problem is who flies in the first sortie as there is always a fear of cancellation of balance sorties. Each yatri, by now, had a excuse to go in the first sortie. There is a restriction on number of passengers per sortie. It was a tough task, I did not want to antagonize any fellow yatri and at the same time had to do a balancing act.
Finally, a list was drawn which was first shared with liaison officers and after their approval shared with all yatris. Surprising no objections were received, and all were happy with their sorties.
The day passed in praying for the sky to clear. It started to rain in the evening and all were hopeful if it rains hard the sky will clear enabling helicopters to fly.
Day 21 – 14th July 2018 ----Gunji ---
Got up. No one had anything to do. Yatris of the two groups started to chat and upon casual enquiring, we were told that the yatri who had left on foot had reached Budhi and was airlifted to Pithoragarh.
This gave us an idea. I discussed the matter with my fellow yatris, and made an application, got it signed by yatris and we all went to discuss the matter with our liaison officers. Seeing us in a group, our liaison officers were taken aback. I requested them to use their good offices to put our case to the government and persuade them to work on the plan to evacuate us from Gunji. Alternatively, we all be allowed to trek to Budhi and be airlifted from Budhi. I had also discussed the matter with the yatris of 3rd batch. They also did the similar exercise.
I must say here, that our two liaison officers went out of their way and requested the administration to listen to the plight of the stranded yatris. As a result, SDM was asked to visit Gunji and speak to us and draw up a evacuation plan.
Seeing the restlessness among the yatris of two batches, ITBP organized a cricket match. Two teams were drawn--- first match between 3rd and 4th batch and second match between the combined team of two batches and ITBP.
ITBP also organized a movie show in the afternoon. After lunch we walked to ITBP make shift conference / auditorium room for the movie. Half way through the movie “Rustom” we heard the thud-thud of the chopper. Everyone just sprang of their feet and ran outside. Our liaison officers announced the arrival of the SDM. We all gathered to hear him out and clear our doubts, if any, regarding evacuation. The SDM was a nice, composed gentleman who answered all our questions and assured us that we will be airlifted the next day. Upon my asking the alternate plan he said if the air evacuation does not happen, for any reason, then we will be allowed to move to Budhi from where small helicopters will be pressed into service. He also volunteered to stay with us in Gunji till all yatris are sent to Pithoragarh safely. A very brave commitment. Thank you, sir.
Day 22 --- 15th July 2018 --- Gunji to Pithoragarh to Jageshwar---
Suddenly a wakeup call at 5 am with the bed tea by KMVN. All round excitement was in the air. We were given the information that the skies have cleared, Chilekh area is clear and the helicopters will be taking off from Naini Saini airport with batch 7 yatris and food for the camp. Batch 3 yatris were getting ready and were asked to move to the helipad.
I kept lying in by bed while all the excitement was going on. First Airforce had to make four sorties to fly out batch 3 yatris before our turn could come up. Each sortie was of approx. 1 hour, which means minimum of 3 hours before our turn could come. And at that height weather can turn any minute. There were few yatris in our batch who had emergencies at home and were to be accommodated with the third batch. Then there were few yatris who, mutually, had agreed to change their sortie groups. To do all these changes in the list, I was suddenly called upon by my liaison officers. The changes were done, and our liaison officers left for the helipad to discuss the final arrangements with Airforce personals.
Meanwhile with all eyes in the sky, we had no interest in breakfast. Finally, we could hear the thud of the first heli. All round joy. We were happy that at least few yatris will now be able to leave for Pithoragarh. After few minutes we heard the second heli too. Again, a mental maths was done and were happy that half of 3rd batch will now be able to go.
Minutes passed, eyes turned to watch and the sky. With each passing minute our anxiety grew. Then after about one hour we again heard the thud of the chopper. Once more a wave of joy. And then the thud of the 4th chopper. This means the entire 3rd batch will leave.
Till now I had not packed my back pack. I was sitting and speculating with my batch yatris.
We were happy that our three yatris were able to leave with the 3rd batch. Liaison officers had given them the instructions what they have to do in Pithoragarh in case our batch was not evacuated.
Our Pulse rate increased, and we all decided to move towards the helipad. After all the identification and security had to be done at the helipad and we did not want to waste time in this activity. We decided to get these necessary activities done. Each minute was precious. Fear was constant that the weather may change and helis may not come, or only few yatris could go. We wanted that our full batch should move together. There was not a single day when our batch was divided. We always moved together, stayed together, ate together, played together, prayed together and even tried to stay together in the trek. So, breaking a batch in four groups was paining all of us but restrictions were there.
After waiting for almost 90 minutes we again heard the thud of the chopper. First sortie people were asked to stand in a line for final security. The chopper landed and due to some weight restriction the number of passengers from the first sortie was reduced. Even their luggage could not go with them. Anyway, we were happy that some of us have eventually been able to leave.
A few minutes thereafter another beautiful sound, music to years, the thud was heard. I was in the second sortie. All my group people along with the luggage of the first group was loaded and we were on our way to Pithoragarh.
Both our liaison officers had volunteered to stay behind with the third and fourth sortie passengers. My liaison officers gave me instructions and made me deputy liaison officer.
We landed in Naini Saini airport, Pithoragarh at 12.57 pm. I went straight to the Commanding Officer and requested him to send the two choppers on the last sortie to pick our balance friends. He said it was being done. In fact, and very commendable of our Airforce, they flew immediately, without wasting even a single minute.
Tea and biscuits were meanwhile served by KMVN at the airport. We were to leave for the hotel, but we stayed at the airport till both the choppers had flown. We wanted to keep staying at the airport but the manager of KMVN said we should proceed for the hotel, freshen up and wait for the balance yatris. It made sense. The 8th batch was on its way to Pithoragh and once they had arrived we would not get the rooms to freshen up. So, while we went for lunch our balance two sortie yatris also arrived. It was joy all over. We met them as if we had not seen them for ages. Though we were apart from each other only for two to three hours.
Had a bath after four days. Changed into fresh clothes. Collected our left bags, rearranged and repacked for the bags and handed over to luggage team. We were to receive our baggage now in Gujarati Samaj only. Yatris who were to get down on the way, gave personal undertakings to our liaison officers and kept their luggage with them.
As our luck held, we were asked to proceed for Jageshwar. We were thinking that the 3rd batch will be sent to Jageshwar. But as Lord Shiva planned it, we were sent. All were very happy. We reached Jageshwar hotel in the evening, rooms were allotted.
I quickly went to the temple to be there for the last “aarti”. I have been visiting this temple on regular basis and find “peace” here. There is some sort of power which gives me a sense of fulfillment.
Day 23 --- 16th July 2018 --- Jageshwar to Delhi --
A pooja was organized for the group in the morning at Jageshwar temple. Those who were interested reached the temple at 5 am, almost everyone reached. Thereafter we came to the hotel, had breakfast and left for Kathgodam.
KMVN general manager welcomed us. Each yatri was given a certificate, a book titled “Kumaon with KMVN” and a beautiful gift.
After lunch we left for Delhi. On the way, we stopped in Hotel Sky Lark in Garh Muketeshwar, belonging to Kailashi Gulshan Kumar. He served us with tea and delicious snacks. He also handed us our group photo, a small bottle of “Ganga Jal” and a hand towel.
Eventually we left for Delhi. Our food committee with the balance money organized pizzas, sandwiches, coke for all yatris in Ghaziabad. Couple of yatris parted ways in Ghaziabad.
Reached Guajarati Samaj at around 8.45 pm. There were lot of people who welcomed us and gave sweets and gifts. My wife, my brother in law and my niece were there to welcome me.
It came to our notice that the local news papaers had covered our stay in Gunji very well.
The group, though from various backgrounds, had melted into one and the closing dinner at hotel in Jageshwar was a joyful conclusion to this 3 week - what shall I call it? An adventure? A jaunt? Trek? Pilgrimage?
Yes, to all of them and more, which is beyond articulation. The mountain, the Mysticism and the sheer magic of all that has become a rare bond among all who have been through this sacred walk.
OM NAMAH SHIVAY
RELATED TOPICS:#himalayas
Sanjay Lal
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