In my previous article, I wrote about the various factors plaguing the denim industry in India. While I went through many different ideas in my head, I decided to write about one which is rather intriguing. This topic is somewhat a mystery for many brands as well as international customers.

PREMIUM DENIMS SHOULD BE IN KNITS

This seems to be the mantra governing the domestic market today, even though the brands merchandisers, designer or business heads do not believe in it.

Let me begin this article by sharing a personal experience.

“ About 15 years back, I started working with Arvind mills and was trying to understand our beloved denims. Back then, the domestic market was dominated by canvas denims. Only canvas weave (1X1) with bold slubs was in demand in the domestic markets. Around the same time, a designer from USA visited our office to finalise few orders for GAP.

After we completed the presentation, I with child like curiosity asked him…

“ Why do international buyers only choose 3/1 and no other weave in denims?”

This question was met with a gaze I still remember.

And his curt reply to my question was “Because denim means 3/1”

Lets fast forward 15 years…

If you study the markets in Delhi, you would realise that knit denims dominate the premium segment. In fact if you venture into the markets and ask them why this happens, you are unlikely to get a convincing answer from anyone. The fact remains that of the 1.5-2.0 million meters sold at Tank road market today, 90% is knits denim.

If you are a brand catering to the premium segment, it's knits and only knits that sell. If you try launching mercerised, authentic ring, beautiful flat finished or wonderful over dyed, you will not see much success.

Now let's try to understand, what is it that makes these heavy weight (mostly 13oz), indigo knit denims so famous? They have been ruling the roost since the past 6 years, and every time a forecast the trends exit, it is postponed to the next year.

THE CONSUMER PERSPECTIVE

Any trend lingers on mostly because the consumer demands for it. Hence, it's important that we first understand the consumer & how the fabric lends itself to his needs.

The consumer in this segment is Young, Distinct, Confident and a Go - Getter

THE PRODUCT PERSPECTIVE

This consumer needs jeans which;

• Are snug fit yet flexible
• Are heavy weight to withstand heavy washes
• Have tearing effect at couple of places
• Have a smooth rick looking finish

For this we need a fabric with; 

• Double finer count instead of OE and Ring ( which we consider premium).
• Dense with almost double the number of picks of normal fabric to give the stability and strength to the fabric.
• Larger floats with weave of 10-12 shafts to have that soft feel irrespective of dense construction
• A knit interwoven feel at  the back of the fabric which gives soft blanket premium feel which is not there in any other weaves 

We finally have a product which is heavy, can withstand even towel wash, is smooth because of double yarn and long floats and is ready for tears, heavy washes and gives an authentic heavy denim feel.

THE COST PERSPECTIVE

If all these make this fabric premium and darling of the domestic market then why is it not being lapped by the Brands.

A. Customer profile : 

For a Brand customer profile is completely different. He is matured, travelled and balanced. For him the product should be of international trend and if he wants premium his requirements are completely different in wash, looks, feel and Blends 

B. Pricing Mechanism :

With Domestic Market working on MRP on cost plus basis rather than on multiple basis they can positively afford a fabric price of upto Rs 250-270 per MTR and still can retail at less than 1399/- which for a brand will not be possible at less than Rs 3000/-. 

Now imagine a garment with all right fabric parameters from yarn to weave to finish distinct stitching style and premium washing AND still available at 1399/- Can any other product beat this proposition..

And rightly so in today's domestic market in fabrics there is only one undisputed winner. KNITS DENIMS...For at least some more time.

RELATED TOPICS:#Sourcing,Apparel,Supply Chain,brands,Fashion Brands,india,apparel industry,exports,fashion & apparel,domestic market,denim fashion,denim manufacturing,knit denim,consumers,Aseem Chitkara