Continuing our journey...

Day 11– 4^th July 2018 ----Takalakot to Darchen---

Today’s journey was to be done by bus. We left for Darchen, after breakfast, at 11 am Chinese time. On the way our buses stopped at Rakshas Tal. One yatri took bath in the tal. After a brief stop of 30 minutes, buses proceeded for Darchen but on the way stopped at Manasarovar lake. Most of the yatris, including our two LO’s took bath. I did not take the bath since I feared catching a chill and not being able to do the Kailash parikrama. Reached hotel in Darchen at 2.45 pm. On the finally way got the first darshan of South face of Holy Kailash.

Darchen was previously known as Lhara and still signposted as such. It was previously an important sheep station for nomads and their flocks. Darchen is situated right in front of the sacred mountain, Mount Kailash. Its altitude is 15,010 ft and is the starting point for pilgrimages in the region.

By now yatris were starving. Food committee got into action and served us with delicious “pakoras” and tea.

Rooms were allocated. Two yatris per room. After tea all of us went out to explore the market. Meanwhile pony – Porter committee went to finalize the ponies and porters for the parikrama.

Day 12– 5^th July 2018 ----Darchen to Deraphuk ---

After breakfast we left Darchen for the first leg of Kailash Parikrama at 10.30 am. The buses dropped us little short of Yama Dwar. We were only allowed to carry a backpack, no more than 5 kgs in weight. At the bus drop point we had to wait for our ponies and porters to arrive.

We started the Holy Parikrama at 12 noon. All yatris are supposed to take three parikrama of Yama Dwar, leave nail and few strands of one’s hair as a token and then proceed for further yatra.

Yama Dwar is the “Gateway “of the God of Death, this is the place of entering the abode of Lord Shiva. Tibetans call 'Tarboche' for Yama Dwar. They believe that Tarboche is the place from where they start circumambulation of their deity's home. To visit Shiva's home, one must pass through the Yama Dwar. 'Yama' is the lord of death and 'Dwar' means gate. Tarboche is nearly a 30 minutes’ drive from Darchen (the base of Mt. Kailash). Yama, who brings mortal souls to his haven and makes judgment of one's merit & sin, then releases you for your  onward cosmic journey, it is said, the real entry from this gate can be made after emancipating the soul from the mortal world.

Yama Dwar is situated at an elevation of approx. 15500 feet above sea level.

A 12 kms trek brings you to Deraphuk which is our first halt for the Kailash Parikrama. Deraphuk lies at an elevation of 17000 feet. It is from Deraphuk that one gets to see the northern face of Mount Kailash.

The journey to Deraphuk is an easy one. The path is mostly level ground with a gradual ascent. It was a lovely day and we had a very pleasant trek to Deraphuk. Reached our camp at 4 pm. Each room accommodates 7 yatris. There is no toilet facility.

Our doctors and LOs soon realized that two of our yatris are not feeling well. They were having trouble in breathing. It was decided not to take a chance and they were sent back to Darchen along with one cook. They were to wait in Darchen for the batch to return after completing the parikrama. In retrospect it was a wise decision.

After settling in our rooms, we decided to go to Charan Sparsh.

We started our walk towards Kailash. As not many yatris go on this route hence there is no track here, you must make your own route over boulders and loose stones and glacier. We being already tired  after a 12 kms trek  above 16000ft altitude, this trek of above 17000+ft was getting a bit heavy. My LO sir who was trekking with me gave up mid-way.

After about 3 kms, I was above 18000 ft and was blocked by a wall of ice covered with mud, loose stones and boulders. This had to be it; this had to be the feet of Mt. Kailash. I said my prayers, sat next to the stream flowing, filled my bottle with pure water. This must be Ganga as it was flowing right from Mount Kailash.

I was breathless by now and started my journey back towards Derapuk camp along with one other yatri. While we were descending, a few other yatris were making their way up to Charan Sparsh.

Day 13– 6^th July 2018 ----Deraphuk to Zunzhui Pu or ZongZerbu---

We got delayed as two of our yatris got lost. They had left the camp to attend to natures call and it seems lost their way back. Our two liaison officers asked a few porters and yatris to undertake a search around the camp. We were worried about the attack by wild dogs. Finally, the two lost yatris came back to the camp. This episode delayed the batch from moving ahead to undertake the toughest journey of our yatra. We left the camp at 6.30 am. Today we had to cross Dolma-La pass and continue the parikrama of Mount Kailash.

Mount Kailash, a peak of the mighty Himalayan range is surrounded by Sutlej on the West, the grand Brahmaputra on the East, Indus on the North, and the largest tributary of the Ganges- Karnali on the South. According to Hindu religious faith, Mount Kailash is the abode of Lord Shiva and his wife Parvati. It is believed that he resides on the summit of Mount Kailash and sits in a state of meditation, thus this peak is regarded as the ultimate destination for attaining spiritual peace and moksha.

I staggered up the side of the mountain to be presented with the emerging East face of Kailash from under a veil of cloud allowing me a full view of her darkness glistening in the golden glow of sunrise. I think this adds to the mystery of “Kang Ripoche” which emanates our unconscious where there is so much we cannot face, so we only see glimpses of it. The striations of the mountain contain all our darkness. For me there is something so mysterious over something that I have no control over seeing.

The sun was rising slowly illuminating the north east face in the distance.

I wondered about the clothing- to my mind it can be interpreted as leaving a part of ourselves, symbolized by one personal item of clothing as a conduit for the energy of Kailash to continue to be with us even when we have left. It could also symbolize leaving the ‘old’ self behind in pursuit of a newness of self as we purify the sins of this lifetime through the Parikrama.

I slowly walked against icy wind to the base of the Dolma La Pass, knowing that I was about to climb to 19500 feet. The wind had picked up and it was freezing temperature, breathing became difficult, each step was a struggle. Lungs struggled for air but presence of Lord Shiva I kept going to complete the Spiritual parkrama.

I was now surrounded by mist and cloud and the many prayer flags began to appear at the top. I was ecstatic at the top. The highest plateau I had ever been to and among happy, smiling, Tibetan pilgrims and fellow yatris. I stood seeing the beauty and feeling the presence of Lord Shiva.

It then began to get cold. My porter started to nudge me. I knew it was time to descend. Very slowly I walked across this high pass and began to descend in light snow. Immediately I saw Gauri kund Lake, green and mysterious in the valley. From one angle it appeared perfectly symmetrical and looked like a club shape of cards. As I began to walk down I began to feel agitated and out of sorts. As I looked around I wondered if I was in the middle of a sky burial site as there were lots of huge boulders with flat tops with little cairns and some flags. I walked over a frozen river with Yaks and ponies close behind me – heavy with their loads and the herders wrestling and moving stones to control their progress and direction. I stood aside on a large boulder as I let them pass as I was still a little scared of their bulky size and their sharp horns.

As I came down into the valley there was a traditional teahouse where pilgrims stop to discuss things, share and drink Tibetan Yak butter tea with salt. Having given my share of ration in form of cup noodle to my porter, I shared some dry fruits with my Liaison Officer.

Reached our camp at Zunzhui Pu at around 1.30 pm local time. One of our yatris, Mr. Sinha, suffered vertigo and other complications due to lack of oxygen. The three doctors, although exhausted by a long and treacherous trek, went into action. It was a worrying time for everyone. His condition started to deteriorate. I along with two other yatris were sharing the room with Mr. Sinha. We took turns to stay awake to monitor his condition throughout the night. Doctors gave us strict instruction to let maximum air to flow into the room and wake them up at any time if any change was noticed in the health of the patient. Somehow the night passed, our prayers paid dividend and Mr. Sinha recovered a bit to undertake the final lap of parikrama.

Day 14 – 7^th July 2018 ----Zunzhui Pu or ZongZerbu to Qugu---

Our roommates had not slept properly. We were all worried about Mr. Sinha’s health. Camp was awake at 5 am and we had a steady stream of yatris inquiring about the health of Mr. Sinha. All wanted to see with their own eyes that the patient was on a path of recovery. After the breakfast of Poha, cornflakes and tea we left for the final journey of our trek at 7.30 am.

The last day was spent walking through the vast and beautiful valley. The rivers flowed fast and wide and the path climbed and dropped.

Reached the finishing point at about 8.30 am covering approx. 6 kms.

Braving the uneven terrain, high altitudes and variable weather on an average the hardy souls can complete the full parikrama trek in about 15 hours.

We waited for about one hour before buses came to take us to Darchen and further to Qugu.

One hour was spent in clicking photos. Everyone was very happy that the group had completed the parikrama of Holy Kailash successfully and without any mishap. We “Chappan” were indeed very blessed.

The buses brought us the Darchen camp. We collected our left luggage, did last minute shopping of small trinkets, water bottles, etc. and left for Qugu. Our three yatris who were sent back from Darchen joined the batch.

Our next halt an hour or two drive from Darchen, was at Qugu, located by the Southern shore of Manasarovar. After days of travelling and trekking, we were finally going to be at the serene Manasarovar. The weather advantage was on our side as we left Darchen. Cruising on the highway, our vehicles briefly halted at Hore where we stopped for last minute purchases. A few of us bought large-sized plastic bottles to carry the sacred water back home. Completing a clockwise circuit of the flagpole at Hor Qu reception center, driving along the shore of Manasarovar, we reached Qugu camp built on a raised level-ground by the sacred lake.

It was comfortably warm inside the dormitory of the Qugu camp house. All rooms had the most iconic views – the Kailash Manasarovar – right from the windowpanes itself. After collecting my luggage, I headed out for a walk along the shoreline. The lake is far wider and larger than I had imagined it to be from the photographs and numerous descriptions. The lake turns from turquoise to dark blue as the drifting clouds make way for the sun. Fifty miles away standing in quiet solitude, the Kailash is clearly visible. From a distance, its chiseled south face creates the illusion of a long, vertical stairway, as if for Gods to climb. Although void of any life it seems to be carrying the marks of some sacred history, the Manasarovar with its sapphire-blue waters, sandy shoreline against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains is wholly appealing. We seemed to have entered the holy land.

I waded in about 8 feet from the shore and as the water reached my knees, I filled my bucket. We were not allowed to take a dip in Manasarovar by the Chinese government. A dip attracted a fine of RMB 5000. The glacial melt of Manasarovar was surprisingly not as cold as I expected it to be. Not sure if the holy water cleansed my body but it calmed my soul for sure; giving it the warmth it needed. 

For the two days, we were there our activities were simple yet most fulfilling in this quiet natural sanctuary; sky gazing, long walks, collecting pebbles, clicking photographs, counting birds, meditating and performing poojas of course.

For two days, I rambled along the shore; with a camera in hand resting only at night or for meals. At over 15000 feet above sea level, with the air being light, my heart beat faster but my feet were aware where they are stepping. Up there, the sun burns with a cleansing brilliance. The sands are whitish and soft underfoot. As the cold wind would rise every now and then, the miniature waves too would respond proportionately. Fenced by the snowy range, the holiest of the earth’s lakes – the Manasarovar – with its two hundred square miles of water, stretches endlessly with unfathomable azure. The rare natural colours that matter here are brown-earth, snowy white, sky and its reflection plus some occasional patches of greens. Everything else, including those of the prayer flags are a creation of mankind.

We are no longer bothered by the timing and quality of the food that is being served to us by the cooks. The excitement of staying so close to the sacred spectacle doesn’t let us sleep. Our gazes are ceaselessly fixed in the northern direction. At night, we are treated to the most spectacular display of stars. Many of us step outside of the dormitory to see the sky more clearly in one of the widest high-altitude theatres. The faint profile of the snow-laden peaks is very much comprehensible in a moonless night. A few of us claim to have seen lights descending from the sky into the waters. Someone from the group asserts that these are deities in the form of light who descend to bathe in the lake, which is why it is sacred. Almost all of us agree with full devotion.

Day 15– 8^th July 2018 ----Stay at Qugu---

Today our Pooja committee was supposed to conduct a Havan. All yatris were divided in a group of 5 so that each yatri gets an opportunity to sit in the Havan and do pooja. Each group was allotted 5 minutes.

We were supposed to reach the Havan platform at 1 pm. Before that all yatris finished their bath in Manasarovar, filled their bottles with holy water and bottles were sealed.

Meanwhile third batch from Nathu-La joined us in Qugu. We offered them tea and snacks.

One of our yatri, Mrs. Vandana Shah, took upon a responsibility of making a prasad for the pooja.  

Pooja and Havan got over and lunch was served at 3 pm. Our food committee had done a splendid job and served us delicious Alloo-Poori lunch. We were all satisfied souls.

We were informed that our luggage will not be handed over and will go straight for customs clearing in Taklakot to be handed only in Gunji. This led to reshuffling of all the luggage. We could not carry more than 5 kgs of weight in our back packs as we had to cross Lipulekh pass and trek to Gunji in the same day. A distance of almost 30 kms.

In the reshuffling and repacking of the luggage I forgot to keep my hand gloves in the back pack. This mistake proved too costly. Also Mr. Sinha forgot his wallet in the room. Fortunately, it was found and handed over to the LO of Nathu-La batch, which finally reached Mr. Sinha.

To be continued...

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