Continuing our journey...

Day 6—29th June 2018---Nabi to Gunji ---

At 7.30 am we left Nabi for Gunji. Reached Gunji at 9 am. Batch 2 had already been airlifted to Pithoragarh. We were back in our igloos. Today was a big day. ITBP doctors were to conduct the medical. All yatris were at ease since our in-house doctors were checking and monitoring our BP and oxygen levels. All yatris were declared fit except one due to high blood pressure. He was asked to come back in the evening for re checking. Our doctors made sure he was fit by evening. After the medical in ITBP, the CO gave a small audio video presentation and some tips on trekking, riding a pony and do and don’ts for the journey.

Day 7 – 30th June 2018 ----Gunji to Kalapani---

Today we had to leave for Kalapani which is about 9 kms from Gunji.

Kalapani is considered as the origin of Kali River that flows from Nepal and enters Uttarakhand.

All yatris were up at 5 am. Bed tea was served at 5.30 am and breakfast at 7 am. Thereafter a whistle and a roll call. Pony porter committee allocated the porters and ponies to the yatris who had opted for them. Thereafter at 8 am we all left Gunji for Kalapani. Just near the Kalapani temple we saw the Vyas Gufa.

Upon reaching Kalapani, ITBP welcomed all yatris with tea and chips. We then visited the temple and later proceeded for immigration. Our passports were stamped, and we moved to the KMVN camp a few meters further. We were now at a height of 11830 feet above sea level.

A team of ITBP soldiers and doctors accompanied the batch. They were to be with us till Lipulekh pass.

By now six yatris including one LO were suffering from dysentery, keeping the three doctors busy. By grace of Lord Shiva, they recovered and were fit to travel.

Evening was spent in the temple singing bhajans.

Day 8 – 1st July 2018 ----Kalapani to Nabhidhang ---

Breakfast was served at 5.30 am. All yatris were ready, spirits were high, and sharp at 6 am we left for Nabhidhang. After a trek was 10 kms and gaining a height from 11,800 feet to 13980 feet above sea level we reached Nabhidhang at 9.40 am. Most of the yatris spent their time making phone calls from a STD booth in the camp and waiting for the clouds to clear and get a “darshan” of OM Parvat.

The most fascinating characteristic of this peak is the unbelievable impression of “OM” naturally formed with the deposition of snow against the black background of the mountain.

KMVN served us the lunch at 10.30 am. Evening tea was served at 3 pm and dinner at 5.30 pm. This was done enabling all yatris to take some rest. The next day was going to be a long day. Evening was spent in rearranging the luggage. From here onwards we could carry only a back pack with max luggage of 3 kgs. Rest of the luggage would move directly to China. We only packed dry fruits, water, medical reports, medicines and the much needed rain coat.

Day 9 – 2nd July 2018 ----Nabhidhang to Taklakot –

Today was a big and challenging day for all of us. We were to cross into China walking via Lipulekh Pass at 17500 feet It was probably the first and the last time in my life that I will cross borders walking.

Lipulekh pass is also known as Lipu-Lekh pass or Tri corner pass. It is a high-altitude mountain pass situated in the western Himalayas with a height of 17,500 feet above sea level. It is an international pass between

India, China and Nepal. It has been used by ancient traders, merchants and pilgrims traversing Nepal and Tibet where it connects Uttarakhand (India) and Nepal with the old trading town of Taklakot ( Purang ) in Tibet.

We all got up at 12.30 am. Cornflakes and Bournvita was served a breakfast. We left our camp at 2.15 am in rain and biting cold. It was a long and exhausting trek. The pitch dark night and continuous rain with only headlamps made our trek even more exhausting.

Eventually we reached the Lipu top at 6.30 a.m after covering a distance of 12 kms and gaining a height of almost 3000 feet. We were all breathless.

Meanwhile there were no signs of the 2nd batch coming down. Freezing cold and chilly winds started to affect us. One of the yatris lips turned purple due to lack of oxygen. ITBP doctors immediately gave her oxygen and she recovered. The ITBP doctors forced us to keep moving our feet and hands. Jump, walk do whatever, but do not stand still was the direction from ITBP.

Finally, after a wait of almost 90 minutes we could hear Om Nama Shivay. Batch 2 was climbing Lipu from China side. We were thrilled, excited and relieved to see them. They were so happy to be on the Indian

soil. Unused oxygen cylinders were handed over, few quick tips from them we were asked to line up to enter Tibet (China). We descended and walked for about 3 kms with our backpacks to reach buses.

Batch 2 yatris had left an apple and a juice bottle for all of us. A very good gesture which is followed by every batch. We were by now thirsty and hungry.

The buses took us to the immigration office in Taklakot. It is also known as Burang or Purang.

Burang, known as Purang in Tibetan, is the administrative center of Burang County, Ngari Prefecture of in the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) (China). The town lies at 13,205 feet above sea level in the valley of the Sarayu Karnali River. To the south are Gurla Mandhata (Mount Namonanyi) and the Abi Gamin ranges. Lake Manasarovar and Mount Kailash are to the north. This region is the mythological and actual river nexus of the Himalaya with sources of the Indus, Ganges and Yarlung Tsangpo/Brahmaputra all within 110 kilometres of Burang.

We were asked to stand in a queue. No one was allowed even to go to the washrooms. The situation started to become critical, especially for our women yatris. Do not forget we had left the camp at 2.15 am and reached immigration at 10.30 am (China is 2hours 30 minutes ahead of India time). eventually, our LOs had to forcefully take up the case with the immigration officers and our Chinese guides to allow yatris to use the wash rooms.

Meanwhile our food committee sneaked and bought water bottles and juice bottles. After the immigration process we were taken to customs. Another 40 minutes exercise before we were taken to the hotel. By now it was 5.30 pm way past lunch time in China so no lunch.

I met my friend and his family from Majhkali, Ranikhet while standing for immigra

Their group could not complete the parikrama and few fellow yatris expired due to cold weather. Very disturbing news indeed. In fact, the weather had turned, and they were not able to leave Taklakot. Eventually the Indian government stepped in and took the help of Nepal Airforce to evacuate the Indian yatris who were doing yatra through private operators.

Rooms were allotted. Two yatris per room. I quickly opened my luggage and rearranged for the next day. Like most of the yatris, I also had not taken bath for last two days. We wanted to freshen up and change cloths. The hotel rooms were comfortable, but we were not given hot water. Even bucket, mug, towels and soap were not provided. It was a challenge to use the bathroom.

Day 10 – 3rd July 2018 ----Taklakot--- Rest day.

Breakfast was noodles and tea. Both tasteless. After breakfast it was time for in house medical tests.

To be continued...

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