THE MYTHS IN FASHION DESIGN

Article 3 of 3

This the 3rd and last blog in this Myths in Fashion Design series. We have already covered colours and fits in  my previous blogs. In this final edition  I will talk about a much misunderstood issue in Fashion.

Is Fashion Design a commercial or fine art?

In this blog, I will talk about

  • why the ambiguity
  • how to align commerce with aesthetics
  • my three simple rules for design
  • benefits of driving a commercial design team.

For the purpose of this article, we will be discussing designing in the context of mass brands and not couture. So let’s move to our first topic.

Why is there ambiguity?

I always felt that it comes from the lack of understanding which business functions have of the the design function. But it really hit home one day when I realised that business teams are mostly ignorant of the fact that their indecisiveness and last minute changes on the production lines lead to delays and cost escalations.

Their point, Design is an art form and they are producing works of art and hence indecision and changes even on the factory floor is okay, because at the end of the day - it must come out ‘perfect’.

Well how does one define 'perfection' in the commercial context?

So this brings me to the ‘mera wala pink’ syndrome.

 

Everyone who has submitted multiple lab dips will understand what I am talking about. Invariably, we come across designers who reject multiple submissions on the basis of what’s in their mind, or because it does not match the said Pantone perfectly. But does the consumer know this?

All he/she sees is what’s on the shop floor and decides if he likes it or not. Unfortunately, I have been witness to endless arguments on this aspect, from both sides of the table.

I remember a case where the designer rejected 5 submissions and I happened be in on the the 6th approval discussion.  She was at pains to describe the ‘pink’ in a baby’s palm, for which she could not find a perfect Pantone reference and unfortunately no one could get the right pink. Hence the name mera wala pink’ syndrome.

In my understanding the problem lies in the misalignment of designers expectation vs a consumer's expectation. A consumer doesn’t know what Pantone the designer wanted, they only know if they like the product. Hence, I say commercial designers need to take commercial calls. Ensure that the end product is aesthetic and saleable, even if it's not “mera wala pink”.

So, then what is the designer supposed to bring to the table?

    • Ability to visualise. 
    • Ability to translate that vision and articulate it with tangible tools like Pantone’s, tech packs, fabrics and patterns to enable other stakeholders to clearly understand what is required.
    • Ability to look at products from a consumers lens.
    • Ability to be consistent with Brand’s visual and creative direction.
    • Quick decision making and closure and not get carried away with the myriad possibilities that exist.

This job is made harder because,

    • A designers work is always judged by others and this heightens the fear of failure in them
    • Everybody has a point of view on design

 

There is always an aura around designers that makes them look like they are from another planet. While, I will not comment on why that happens, the reality is that it does. Many a times this leads to designers not interacting with the rest of the stakeholders the way they should. The different functions also create an enigma around them, resulting in business teams finding it hard to relate to design teams.

How then should they objectively set expectations?

Here are my 3 simple rules for Commercialising Design Teams.

Rule No. 1

Being on time and good is better than being late but perfect

‘It’s better to be roughly right than perfectly wrong’, quoting Keynes in a design blog. Ah! The cost of perfection. Michelangelo took 12 years to create the Sistine Chapel, but are we creating that one perfect piece or ensuring that the right merchandise reaches the consumer at the right time. The cost of being late versus the pleasure of being perfect, that’s the eternal ambiguity.

Rule No. 2

Design to cost, keeping the commerce in commercial art.

A huge amount of time is wasted by businesses, in getting this right. So working out the basic raw material components and their costs and aligning it to business requirement before designing with those, is the key to successful commercial design.

Rule No. 3

Create marketing stories around product lines.

A majority of consumers buy products, not ensembles and looks. A lot of time and effort goes into creating differentiated design and products, but are these marketing ideas? Brands and their products need to tell a story, give a reason to the consumer to buy them. Everyone makes great products these days, have good aesthetics as well, but it’s the brands that successfully tell their stories, that win in the end.

So to answer the question on how to align, it’s simple.

    • Develop a clear understanding of what the design function is supposed to bring to the table.
    • Set clear expectations based on the above 3 rules and
    • Allow a set percentage of the business to be steered through experimentation by the creative design teams; this should be their window of creativity beyond the defined set.

And finally what’s the Benefit of driving design in the above fashion

This is the simplest one to answer, really.

    • Speed to Market dramatically goes up, if design teams are aligned. It is this tug of war between designers ask and commercial viability that takes up to 6 weeks in the development process.
    • Profitability Soars, when commercials are aligned from concept to wardrobe.
    • Sell-throughs increase and the Brand scores when designers think marketing stories rather than purely aesthetic concepts.

Conclusion

Design forms the foundation of any business, and an empowered design team becomes a big asset to the company as is evident from the benefits mentioned earlier.

Commercial design and designers have to re-look at the conventional ways in which they function and evolve into a business specific role. While creativity is the central premise of a design team and its objectives, it’s also important to align in regards to the business outputs. After all the success of a commercial designer lies in the success of the business at large.

Let’s look at some key points I would like to leave the readers with.

  • Designers should continue to pursue their creative endeavours but with a purpose in mind. If a designer is working for a brand, it’s important for him/her to work differently and add these skills to their repertoire.
  • Designers need to go beyond what they are doing & evolve into successful designers by understanding the business models and tweaking their output to better suit them.
  • Commercial design comes with many constraints. A smart designer will be able to understand these and work around them in creative ways. Designers in couture labels are very different in this respect, they are creating art and selling one piece of each, while commercial designers are making mass produced garments which has to be liked by many, need to fit into competitive costing models and feasible for mass manufacture. Brands need them to work differently and need practical minds to lead the aesthetic and technicals aspects of the products & design based on that.

Designers are the foundation of a business, and if the foundation is strong, businesses flourish.

I welcome our readers to share their unique perspectives on this subject. Please leave your comments in the below box.

RELATED TOPICS:#Anindya Ray

With 30+ years in the fashion industry leading diverse functions like Buying & Merchandising, Design, Marketing, Sales, Sourcing & Quality, being associated with premium brands like US Polo Assn, Flying Machine, Arrow, Calvin Klein, Allen Solly etc. This collaborative blogspot is Anindya's effort to contribute back his thoughts and to provide a medium to industry's other like-minded professionals like him to share their experiences with a larger interested audience.

16 Comments

thats are really good. i enjoy "Fashion Design a commercial or fine art" sections.

I sed to be suggestd this bllog viaa mmy cousin. I'm nnow noot certain whether tis submit is written viaa him as nobody else know ssuch specified aboht my problem. You're wonderful! Thanks!

Hi Anindya, While I thoroughly enjoyed reading this article, I am forced to think differently, it perhaps could be the influence of my past work experience in the industry. A designers role is to create, innovate, recreate, invent etc whether this designer is making for the masses or it’s a boutique piece, one is always inventing. Its a given that they are wired to think differently from the rest of us. There’s always a quest for perfection. If the designer has a syndrome, it’s because he/she knows which pink will work for the customer. Calling a designer a commercial designer is like expecting them to acquire skills of what product, merchandising or technical teams do. I do agree that basic commercial knowledge is important, but if we are tampering the wiring of a designers thought process it’s going to lead to a compromised outcome. When you say that a designer rejected the Pantone 5 times I don’t think it’s the designers fault, they obviously will want to offer the perfect; However, I completely agree that the time line here is more important & being on time is the larger picture, hence somebody more empowered here has to intervene/overrule the designers call and take quicker commercial decisions.

It’s a thought provoking article from a sustainable and growing business point of view It’s a valid debate Anindya...... a designer has to follow and align with the business goals he / she is associated with and work on desirables and expectations accordingly Being flexible and decisive - will create more comfort within the system and teams working together on a product bringing ultimate satisfaction to all the stake holders Nevertheless designers do play an important role in creating a brand following with their sharp and early trend spotting which is what their ultimate nirvana lies - rest execution can always have commercial end in mind Anindya you have been raising right questions and valid debates across all stake holders be it brand or designer or supplier or supply chain .... and is leading to some real pathbreaking thoughts coming forth - pls keep flowing

Very well explained sir, it is very insightful..

Dear Anindya, I can't agree more than this with you. It's an amazing series with 360*degree insights of all the fundamental aspects of our trade. As i was part of many such conversations with design team exactly know what is "Mera wala pink syndrome". Imparting the knowledge of apparel manufacturing processes and most importantly the timelines with design team is imperative. Always there should to be a balance between creativity and commerciality. I had seen designers who are very decisive, having strong commercial sense and upholding the brand DNA all the time.

The title "Mera Wala Pink" itself a catchy and interesting line and the pain to fulfill this perfection is really well explained and appreciable. You very well said that a empowered design team is a big asset for the company and can evolve into successful designers by understanding the business model. But at the same time it is very unfortunate when we see that only to get a "PERFECT" product as per designer point of view, last minutes changes are done on production lines, which may end up giving negative results because the cost of being late v/s the pleasure of being perfect may loose the business opportunity. Appreciate your courage on giving blunt statement like "Aura around designers" which deeply touches every person who deal with designers. Totally agree upon that a product should be designed keeping competitive costing and feasibility in mass manufacturing in mind. The take away from the article is, designers should have better understanding of brand handwriting and pricing because end of the day their products needs to tell a story for consumers to buy. A very well written article.

It is really Wonderful & great artical and it is great learning from the series for design and fit.

Dear Anindya, wonderful article, it has a great business relevance. Kind of role which design team can play is immense provided when they stood up to understood the requirement on the business context along with the aesthetic aspect. What is the impact they create on the timelines when the clear closures have not been made had to be reviewed as a summary by design team seasonally once for greater practical awareness on the "mera wala pink" syndrome. thanks for taking us through all leading & important insights starting from color, fit & fashion design. we could get more & key takeaways.

Anindya, this article was amazing! I have asked our Beebay design team to read this!!

The series explained the whole circle where each of the topics was equally important. Wonderful insights and very well explained sir. Its great learning from the series of articles on the Myths in fashion design.

Anindya- a very well written article as usual. The transition from an artist to a designer starts with fashion education. The growth from a designer graduate to a commercial designer is helped by acquiring technical, functional and production knowledge of product one works with. But to top it off and be really successful as a commercial designer, one needs to layer all the technical and production knowledge over a culture of imbibing the brand DNA (also called the brand signature/ design language etc). When one can seamlessly transition from concept to sample to production feasibility, incorporate top quality parameters into the final product, work with the production planning team to ensure best bulk output and finally also articulate how would it be displayed/ catalogued, communicated/ described and price it most effectively for a high sales velocity (effectively is not about being the lowest MRP achievable at a certain multiple but about fitting in with customer and pricing trends for similar brands). A designer’s mind needs to move from concept to revenue per option through the stages of shortlisting and finalising ruthlessly. Emotions have a role to play for most designers, right brained as they are. It’s a fine balance the most designers will need to strike, and once they’re able to balance their emotions and commercial pragmatism, a designer is probably the biggest asset an organisation has, and the glue that keeps buying, merchandising, sourcing and retail planning stuck together on a journey to greatness. Great article. Keep ‘em coming!

HI Sir, Very good wholestic approach to commercial designing. An inclusion of designer creativity and freedom along with commercial aspects of becoming a successful Brand where you are valued for your creativity, financial gains for the existence and to get the door open to higher levels of experimentation that can culminate in the joy of self-satisfaction in-what-we-do which all designers cherish.

Sir, It is a good article well explained on the * Designers insight - Concept of design. * Projected outcome - Visualising the theme. * Decision making - What is possible against desired ? * End result - What sells the most creating business in time is much important than the right desired in the wrong time. Wonderful & great learning experience from the series of articles on the Myths in fashion design covering the colours , fits & design. ???

Your observation on The Mera wala pink syndrome is hilarious and so true . I admit ,I have done this too but later, better sense prevailed and I learnt that it's important to have a bird's eye view and a wider understanding of the brand's or business requirment .  I have also noticed that a lot of apparel designers bring in their personal tastes and preferences loosing sight of brand handwriting , positioning , and pricing. An uncompromisingly forthright article.

In discussion the points referred are: 1. indecisiveness leading to chaos on the factory floor. 2. Mera wala Pink thereby being stubborn and oblivious of the customer thought process. Which brings us to a question are the so-called designers " Fashion Designers " OR " Apparel Designers". I see these as two separate things. Fashion designing is the art of designing clothing, fashion, accessories, etc. Apparel designing is a more technical term--pertaining to the specific act of creating clothing from nuts to bolts. If someone is apparel designing, I seem them more as a technician. For example when a big house hires a team of designers to create a line under that house's label such as Puma, or Nike or Gap, those designers who work for that house would be referred to as apparel designers. In order to bring speed to market a Brand, while hiring, should be clear on their requirements. Does their business permit to hire Fashion Designer or Apparel Designer?

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